Seven days of turquoise waters, marine wonders, and unexpected tranquillity in the Maldives
The Island That Had Been Calling Me
For years, pictures of the Maldives had held me spellbound. The crystal-clear turquoise waters, the pristine beaches, and the enchanting shades of blue had repeatedly stirred a desire to visit this island paradise. India is one of the leading sources of tourists to the Maldives, and I could understand why. There was something irresistible about those pictures.
But admiring photographs and experiencing a place are two entirely different things.
When an opportunity arose in July 2026 to accompany our daughter to Dharavandhoo in the Maldives while she pursued her passion for diving, I jumped at it. We planned a week's stay, looking forward to a holiday that promised both marine adventures and the pleasure of being surrounded by Nature.
Little did I know that this small island would offer me something more precious than beautiful scenery. It would give me moments of deep tranquillity, simple pleasures, and a quiet longing to return even before I had left.
Dharavandhoo is an inhabited local island in the Baa Atoll, a region famous for its rich marine life and its proximity to Hanifaru Bay, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The island has a distinctive character, with its village, small airport, and a substantial stretch of tropical vegetation. Fishing, agriculture, and tourism sustain the local economy.
Unlike the luxurious, secluded resort islands often associated with the Maldives, Dharavandhoo offers an opportunity to experience everyday island life alongside the beauty of the ocean. And that was precisely what appealed to me.
From the Skies to the Sea
Our journey began with a three-hour flight to Malé, the capital of the Maldives. From there, we boarded a domestic flight that took barely twenty minutes to reach Dharavandhoo.
By evening, we had arrived.
A representative from Kiha Beach, our beachfront boutique hotel, was waiting at the airport. Within ten minutes, we were at the hotel, ready to settle into our island home for the next seven days.
Kiha Beach had modern, comfortable rooms, and ours offered a wonderful view of the ocean through large glass doors. The thought of waking up and looking straight at the sea was delightful.
After leaving our luggage in the room, we walked to C-Plankton restaurant for dinner. We had a decent meal, returned to our room, and went to sleep, ready to begin our island adventure the following morning.
But even during that first evening, I noticed something that made me feel unexpectedly at home. The roads were not all tarred. Trees grew around the houses, and there was a certain quietness about the place. There were no four-wheelers constantly zooming past, disturbing the peace. Something about the island reminded me of my childhood days at my grandmother's home.
It is not merely the greenery or the unpaved roads. It was the atmosphere of simplicity, the feeling that life could move at a gentler pace. The island seemed to have retained something that modern life has gradually taken away from many of us. I felt comfortable almost immediately.
A Hammock Above the Sea
On the morning of the 12th, our daughter left early for her diving session. My husband accompanied her to the diving centre, which was within walking distance of our hotel.
That was one of the pleasures of Dharavandhoo. The island is small enough to explore on foot, measuring approximately 1.33 kilometres in length and 0.48 kilometres in width. One could walk from one end to the other without much difficulty.
After my husband returned, we went to the nearby sea for some snorkelling. The water was inviting, and it was lovely to be in such close contact with the ocean. But the experience that stayed with me was something quite different.
I settled into a hammock suspended above the water. As the waves rolled in, my feet and then nearly half my body dipped into the sea. It was a delightful sensation!
I had never experienced anything quite like it before. There was no need to do anything, go anywhere, or achieve anything. I could simply lie there, feel the movement of the water, and enjoy the moment.
After breakfast, we returned to our room. I sat on the bed, gazing at the sea through the large glass doors. I remained there for hours.
The changing shades of blue, the gentle movement of the waves, and the vast expanse of water had a deeply calming effect on me. I did not feel the need to fill the time with an activity. Watching the sea itself was enough.
As someone who values meditation, healing, and time spent in Nature, I have often spoken about the restorative power of quietness. Yet, it is one thing to speak about it and quite another to experience it so effortlessly.
There, in Dharavandhoo, the sea seemed to invite me into silence. I could sit and watch, without feeling that I was wasting a single minute. Perhaps this was one of the greatest gifts of the holiday: discovering that doing nothing can sometimes be the most nourishing thing we can do.
Beneath the Turquoise Waters
The waters of the Maldives are famous for their extraordinary clarity. Shallow lagoons with white sandy bottoms, relatively low plankton levels in many areas, the absence of major rivers carrying sediment from large landmasses, and the natural processes associated with coral reefs all contribute to those beautiful shades of turquoise and blue. Yet, beneath that tranquil surface lies a world full of movement and life.
Dharavandhoo is particularly attractive to divers and snorkellers because of its rich marine environment. Its home reef offers opportunities to encounter a variety of marine creatures, including manta rays in suitable conditions.
One does not necessarily have to be a trained scuba diver to appreciate this underwater world. Snorkelling allows visitors to observe marine life from the surface, although the creatures one encounters naturally depends on the season, sea conditions, and location.
A short boat ride from the island takes visitors to Hanifaru Bay, one of the most remarkable marine sites in the region. From approximately May to November, plankton-rich waters can attract large aggregations of manta rays. On exceptional occasions, many manta rays gather together to feed, creating an unforgettable spectacle. Whale sharks are also found in the wider region.
For divers, underwater photographers, and marine enthusiasts, this is an extraordinary natural attraction.
Our daughter had come primarily for these underwater experiences. For her, the ocean offered exploration and adventure. For me, it offered something equally fascinating, but in a different way. I was happy simply to be near the water, observing its inhabitants whenever the opportunity arose and allowing the sea to work its quiet magic on me.
We were experiencing the same island, but each of us was finding our own kind of joy.
New Friendships and Conversations of the Soul
One of the unexpected pleasures of travel is the people we meet along the way. During our stay, we became friendly with another person who had come to Dharavandhoo for diving, along with his wife. They were an open-minded, pleasant couple, and we soon found ourselves having interesting conversations about spirituality.
For me, such encounters are among the most meaningful aspects of travelling. Beautiful landscapes may capture our attention, but conversations with people can touch us at a deeper level. The wife was interested in healing. She took healing sessions from our daughter and was astonished by how deeply relaxed she felt afterwards.
It was lovely to see someone approach these experiences with curiosity and then discover something meaningful for herself. Our friendship continued throughout the week. There were more conversations, and she later took a hypnotherapy session from our daughter as well.
It was a reminder that travel can bring together people who might otherwise never have crossed paths. Different lives, different backgrounds, and different interests can suddenly meet in one small island, opening the door to new experiences and exchanges. Sometimes, the most memorable souvenirs we bring home are not things we buy, but the connections we make.
When we were walking back to our hotel, got to see an extraordinary sight of cats' conference on the way.
An Evening with Sharks and Rays
On the evening of our third day, we walked towards the far end of the island on the right-hand side.
What we witnessed there was fascinating.
Sharks and rays were swimming surprisingly close to the shore. We sat and watched them, fascinated by the movement of these creatures in the shallow waters.
There was something extraordinary about seeing marine life so close without having to venture far into the ocean.
We stayed there until sunset, watching the water and the creatures moving through it.
The experience brought home a simple truth: Nature does not always require elaborate arrangements or expensive excursions to reveal its wonders. Sometimes, all we need is to be in the right place, at the right time, with the willingness to observe. The ocean was providing its own spectacle, and we were fortunate enough to have a front-row seat.
A New Moon by the Ocean
The fourth day was quieter for me. While my husband went snorkelling, I stayed back, reading and updating my diary. I enjoy recording experiences while they are still fresh, preserving not only what happened but also the thoughts and feelings that accompanied them.
For lunch, we chose Dharavandhoo Fishing Club Restaurant. We enjoyed some of the dishes, though we found that the quality of the fish was not always to our liking. The pulao was good, and the mashed potato was particularly delicious.
After lunch, I returned to one of my favourite occupations on the island: sitting with my daughter on the wooden hammock and watching the sea.
There is a special kind of companionship in being able to sit quietly with someone without needing to fill every moment with conversation. We could simply watch the waves, enjoy the surroundings, and let the atmosphere do the rest.
That day was also a New Moon.
For me, the lunar cycle has long been an opportunity to pause, reflect, and turn inward. I conduct group meditations around the New Moon and Full Moon, using these occasions to encourage people to review their inner lives and release what no longer serves them.
So, on this New Moon day, we did the meditation I had prepared for the occasion.
What could be more appropriate than spending such a day beside the ocean?
The vastness of the sea, the rhythm of the waves, and the stillness that surrounded us seemed to complement the inward journey of meditation. I often tell people that we need not always travel somewhere special to meditate. But when our surroundings naturally encourage silence, the experience can become particularly beautiful.
Dharavandhoo offered me just that.
The Ocean's Unexpected Feeding Time
Later, we walked towards the far end of the island again.
We discovered that fish waste was being discarded into the sea at a particular time each day. This had become a regular occurrence, and many fish gathered there in anticipation of the food.
It was a fascinating sight.
We watched as numerous marine creatures appeared, drawn to the spot. That evening, we counted thirteen sharks and also saw marble rays, electric rays, and what appeared to be cow-nosed rays.
The gathering was remarkable, although the practice of discarding fish waste into the sea also made me reflect on how human activity influences marine life.
It was an unusual opportunity to observe these creatures so close to shore. At the same time, it reminded me that the relationship between humans and Nature is not always as simple as it appears.
We depend on Nature for our survival and pleasure, but our actions also affect the ecosystems we visit.
Travel becomes richer when we do more than admire a place. It becomes an opportunity to observe, learn, and reflect on our own relationship with the world around us.
Discovering Theluli Fai
Food is an important part of discovering a place, and our fifth day brought us a delightful local culinary experience. Early that morning, our daughter was going to the jetty in the hotel vehicle. We accompanied her, and the driver kindly took us around the island. It was a lovely way to see more of Dharavandhoo and observe its everyday life.
Later, we went snorkelling, and when lunchtime arrived, we returned to Dharavandhoo Fishing Club Restaurant.
This time, our meal included a tender coconut drink, fried rice, vegetable curry prepared with turmeric and coconut milk, and salad.
But the highlight was something I had never tasted before: fried moringa leaves with onion slices.
The dish is known locally as Theluli Fai.
It was delicious!
I have always been interested in traditional foods, particularly dishes that use locally available ingredients in simple ways. Moringa leaves are familiar to me, but this preparation was new, and I immediately decided that I must try making it at home.
It is amazing how a simple dish can become one of the most memorable discoveries of a holiday.
We often travel thousands of kilometres to see beautiful landscapes, but sometimes a new flavour gives us an equally lasting memory.
Theluli Fai was certainly going to travel home with me, at least in the form of a recipe and a culinary experiment!
The Luxury of Watching the Sea
By the sixth day, I had settled into a comfortable rhythm.
While my daughter and husband went snorkelling, I stayed in the room, watching the sea.
Some people might wonder whether I was missing out by not joining every excursion. After all, we had travelled all the way to the Maldives, a destination celebrated for its marine adventures.
But I have learnt that a holiday does not have to be a continuous series of activities.
We each have different ways of enjoying a place. My husband and daughter were happiest exploring the underwater world, while I found immense pleasure in sitting quietly, reading, writing in my diary, and observing the sea.
The large glass doors of our room framed the ocean like a living painting. The waves were never exactly the same. Their movements, colours, and reflections kept changing, yet the sea retained its timeless presence.
I could sit there for hours without feeling bored.
Perhaps, as we grow older, we begin to appreciate a different kind of luxury. It is not necessarily about the size of a room, the number of activities offered, or the variety of things we can buy.
Sometimes, luxury is having the time and space to be completely at ease.
It is waking up without hurry, sitting without a schedule, and allowing the mind to settle naturally.
For me, Dharavandhoo offered this luxury in abundance.
Until We Meet Again, Dharavandhoo
The following morning, it was time to leave.
The hotel staff took us to the airport, and we prepared to say goodbye to the little island that had been our home for a week.
We had come because our daughter wanted to dive. We had enjoyed snorkelling, watched sharks and rays, explored the island, discovered local food, and made friends with a lovely couple.
Yet, when I looked back on the holiday, it was not just these experiences that remained with me.
I remembered the unpaved roads that had reminded me of my childhood. The trees, the quietness, and the absence of constant traffic. The hammock suspended over the water. The hours spent watching the sea through the glass doors. The New Moon meditation beside the ocean. The simple pleasure of discovering a delicious local dish.
Above all, I remembered the feeling of peace.
Dharavandhoo was not merely a beautiful island with crystal-clear waters. It was a place where I could slow down, turn inward, and enjoy Nature without feeling the need to do anything more.
Perhaps that is why, as we were leaving, a small voice inside me whispered:
“I would love to come back again.”
I smiled at the thought.
Some places impress us with their grandeur. Others captivate us with their beauty. And then there are places that quietly find a home in our hearts.
Dharavandhoo had done that to me.
As the island receded from view, I carried away memories of turquoise waters, fascinating marine life, warm friendships, and delicious food. But I also carried something less tangible and far more precious: the memory of a week in which I had felt wonderfully at peace.
And somewhere within me, the little island was already waiting for my return.
Until we meet again, Dharavandhoo!
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