Nectar of Life: Ice and Fire – Experiencing Iceland- Part 3

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Day 6: Whale Watching and Local Flavors

A whale-watching tour is one of the most memorable experiences you can have in Iceland. Húsavík, often called the “Whale-Watching Capital of Iceland,” is a must-visit destination. Tours from Húsavík are led by experienced guides who share valuable insights about whale behavior, marine conservation, and the surrounding landscapes. The calm northern waters are a thriving haven for marine life, making sightings both likely and spectacular.

Akureyri – The “Capital of the North”

Akureyri is the largest city in North Iceland and the second-largest urban area in the country. Nestled at the base of Eyjafjörður fjord, it serves as a vital hub for trade, services, culture, and education in the region.

The name Akureyri is derived from Akur (“field”) and Eyri (“sandbank” or “spit of land”), reflecting its location where fertile land meets the sea. Permanent settlement began here in 1778 with the construction of the first residential buildings. Early residents supported themselves by selling agricultural products such as meat and wool to Danish merchants.

In 1867, Norwegian settlers in Eyjafjörður discovered the area’s abundant herring stocks—often described as a figurative “herring gold mine.” This discovery transformed Akureyri into a fishing powerhouse, a legacy that continues today with several fishing companies still in operation.

Eyjafjörður - Iceland's longest fjord

Situated in North Iceland, Eyjafjörður stretches over 60 kilometers, making it the longest fjord in the country. It is renowned for its breathtaking scenery—steep mountain slopes, tranquil waters, and the vibrant town of Akureyri at its southern end.

The fjord’s nutrient-rich waters support a diverse range of marine life. It is one of the few places where you might glimpse the majestic blue whale, the largest animal on Earth. The ecosystem also includes unique species such as the ocean quahog—a long-living clam known to reach centuries in age and considered an important marine resource.

Plokkfiskur and Kjötsúpa – Savoring Local Flavors

No journey is complete without tasting the soul of a place through its food. After a bit of online research and gathering tips from friendly locals, we set our sights on two beloved Icelandic dishes: Plokkfiskur and Kjötsúpa.

Plokkfiskur, which translates to “plucked” or “mashed fish,” is a comforting traditional dish made from fish, potatoes, onions, and béchamel sauce. Thick, creamy, and satisfying, it’s the kind of food that warms you from the inside out. While typically cooked on the stovetop, modern takes on Plokkfiskur turn it into a baked casserole, topped with cheese or buttered breadcrumbs for extra texture and flavor.

Kjötsúpa, one of Iceland’s most iconic dishes, is a lamb soup made with winter root vegetables. True to Nordic culinary tradition, the recipe is simple and seasonal, often seasoned only with salt and pepper to allow the pure flavours of the ingredients to shine through.

These specialties came highly recommended at Naustið, a charming family-run restaurant with a bright, nautical-inspired interior. Naustið prides itself on using high-quality, locally sourced ingredients—fresh seafood, homegrown vegetables, locally raised meat, and freshly baked breads and cakes made in-house daily. The care and authenticity reflected in every bite made the experience truly memorable.

A Restful Night at Helluland Guesthouse

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Helluland Guesthouse, where we had our night’s stay booked. Located in the charming town of Sauðárkrókur, this unique guesthouse carries with it a piece of local history.

Originally built in 1907, Helluland is believed to be one of the first concrete houses constructed in the area. For decades, it served as a residence for farming families who lived and worked on the surrounding land. In 2016, the house was lovingly renovated and transformed into a cozy guesthouse, offering shared living spaces and a well-equipped kitchen for guests.

What truly sets Helluland apart is its setting. From the property, we were treated to sweeping views of the river, majestic mountains, and the vast sea—an unforgettable panorama that perfectly framed the tranquility of northern Iceland.

Day 7: Northwest Iceland

Lava Fields and Legends

Our journey through Northwest Iceland took us to Berserkjahraun, a hauntingly beautiful 4,000-year-old lava field located on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Formed by a series of eruptions from four nearby scoria craters, the lava once flowed from the slopes of Bjarnarhafnarfjall all the way to the sea at Hraunsfjörður and Hraunsvík.

Today, Berserkjahraun is one of Iceland’s most striking landscapes. The jagged black lava rocks, now softened by a blanket of vibrant green moss, create a surreal, almost otherworldly scene—at once rugged and poetic.

But this lava field is not only geologically fascinating; it’s steeped in Icelandic legend. According to the Eyrbyggja Saga, a farmer once brought two Swedish berserkers—fierce Viking warriors—to the peninsula. One of them fell in love with the daughter of Víga-Styr, the farmer’s brother who lived on the far side of the lava field.

In response, Víga-Styr set the berserkers an impossible task: to clear a path through the lava field to his brother’s farm. To everyone’s amazement, they completed the challenge with great strength and determination. However, rather than honoring his promise, Víga-Styr betrayed them. Legend has it that he murdered the two warriors and buried them near the very path they had carved.

The moss-covered rocks seemed to whisper remnants of this saga as we walked through the eerie, captivating terrain—nature and myth entwined in Iceland’s timeless way.

Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss – Icons of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

No visit to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is complete without experiencing the iconic Kirkjufell Mountain, often hailed as the most photographed peak in Iceland. Rising dramatically near the town of Grundarfjörður, its name—Kirkjufell—translates to “Church Mountain,” a reference to its elegant, steeple-like shape.

This breathtaking mountain gained international fame after being featured in the acclaimed series Game of Thrones, where it appeared as the mysterious Mt. Arrowhead. Since then, Kirkjufell has become a must-see landmark, drawing photographers, filmmakers, and nature lovers alike, all eager to capture its striking silhouette.

Just a short walk away lies the equally captivating Kirkjufellsfoss, a charming trio of waterfalls cascading along the Kirkjufellsá river, which originates from the Helgrindur volcano.

Though modest in height—just five meters—the falls are beloved for the perfect composition they create with the mountain in the background. When viewed from the right angle, the scene appears almost surreal: the triangular peak rising behind the flowing water, forming one of Iceland’s most picture-perfect vistas.

Standing before this natural masterpiece, it's easy to see why Kirkjufell and its falls are etched into the hearts of all who visit.

The Freezer Hostel – A Creative Retreat on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

After changing hostels daily, we were looking forward to a two-night stay at the Freezer Hostel, located in the village of Rif on the western edge of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Unlike typical hostels, the Freezer is a unique blend of creativity and comfort—it’s a former fish processing factory transformed into a vibrant artsy hostel and professional theatre.

Our room featured a private bathroom (a welcome change from the usual shared facilities), though bath towels were only available for rent. The communal kitchen was bright, clean, and fully equipped, it made meal prep easy and enjoyable.

What truly sets this place apart is the Freezer Cultural Centre, which offers movie nights, quizzes, and karaoke evenings open to all guests. Next door, the Freezer Theatre hosts regular concerts featuring local and international bands, as well as performances inspired by Icelandic folklore, history, and mythology.

Unfortunately, there were no live events during our stay, but the creative atmosphere and cozy charm of the place still made it a memorable stop on our journey.

Day 8 : Exploring Snæfellsnes National Park – Saxhóll Crater

We began our morning by heading into Snæfellsnes National Park, a region known for its striking natural beauty and geological wonders. The peninsula is rich with diverse landscapes—lava fields, glaciers, dramatic coastlines, and volcanic formations—all waiting to be explored. Our first stop was the Saxhóll Crater, one of the park’s most accessible volcanic sites. A sturdy staircase of 396 steps leads to the summit, which stands 109 meters above sea level.

From the top, we were rewarded with panoramic views of the surrounding lava fields and the vast Atlantic horizon.

The crater last erupted around 3,000 to 4,000 years ago, spewing molten magma at temperatures near 1,000 degrees Celsius. Today, it stands as a silent monument to the peninsula’s volcanic past, offering visitors a chance to walk quite literally in the footsteps of ancient fire.

Vatnshellir Cave – A Journey into the Earth

Our next adventure took us deep beneath the surface with a tour of Vatnshellir Cave—an experience that felt like stepping into another world. Located on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, this remarkable lava tube is one of Iceland’s oldest, formed nearly 8,000 years ago during a volcanic eruption.

Vatnshellir was created when a river of molten lava began cooling from the outside in. As the outer layer solidified, the hot lava within continued to flow, eventually draining away and leaving behind a hollow tunnel beneath the earth’s surface.

Today, the cave stretches 200 meters in length and descends to a depth of 35 meters. A spiral staircase leads visitors down into the cave, but once inside, the terrain is rugged and unpaved.

There’s no artificial lighting—just the beam from your torch—so a moderate level of fitness and steady footing is essential.

The walls of the cave are beautifully colored by the minerals left behind by the lava. Red hues reveal iron deposits, yellow tones mark the presence of sulfur, and green streaks hint at traces of copper.

The highlight of the tour comes at its deepest point, where everyone is invited to switch off their lights and stand in complete, utter darkness—a moment of awe, silence, and a touch of the surreal. It was a humbling reminder of the raw, ancient forces that shaped this land.

Arnarstapi village

Our next destination was Arnarstapi, a picturesque fishing village on the southern coast of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Though small in size, Arnarstapi is rich in history, folklore, and dramatic natural beauty. Surrounded by sea cliffs, lava fields, and sculpted rock formations, the village offers a peaceful yet powerful sense of place.

This natural harbor has drawn settlers for centuries and rose to prominence as a bustling trading post during Danish rule in the mid-1500s. Its historical roots run deep, both in recorded history and Icelandic legend.

One of the earliest references to Arnarstapi comes from the Bárðar Saga Snæfellsás, which tells the tale of Bárður, a mysterious figure said to be half-human, half-ogre—born of a giant father and a human mother. According to the saga, Bárður once lived on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and, after retreating into the glacier, became its guardian spirit. Even today, locals speak of him with reverence, and his presence is said to watch over the land and its people.

Walking through Arnarstapi feels like stepping into the pages of a myth—where every cliff and stone might hold a secret, and the winds seem to carry whispers from another world.

There are many natural wonders in Arnarstapi and its surrounding to captivate travellers:

Lóndrangar – The Watchtowers of the Coast

They stand like ancient towers along the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. . These towering rock pinnacles are remnants of a massive volcanic crater, sculpted by the relentless forces of wind and sea over millions of years. Locals claim the cliffs belong to the elves, spiritual beings that are said to guard the land. Out of respect, many Icelanders avoid disturbing the area, allowing nature and spirit to coexist undisturbed.

Standing at the edge, watching the waves crash against the base of the cliffs and the seabirds circle above, one can’t help but feel the quiet magic that seems to linger in the air.

Gatklettur – The Hellnar Arch and the Hidden Rifts

Along the dramatic coastline between Arnarstapi and Hellnar lies Gatklettur, often referred to as the Hellnar Arch, a stunning natural stone arch sculpted by centuries of wind and sea.

Nearby are three naturally formed rifts—Hundagjá, Miðgjá, and Músagjá—each a testament to the geological dynamism of this region. These fissures were created by powerful tectonic forces and now form part of the scenic Arnarstapi coastal walk, which winds through lava cliffs, bird colonies, and ocean-sculpted rock formations.

Of particular interest is Músagjá, a fascinating rift that marks the boundary between two tectonic plates. It’s a quiet yet awe-inspiring spot where you can literally stand between the Eurasian and North American plates—an unforgettable moment that connects you to the living geology of Iceland.

Now it was time to go back to the Freezer Hostel for a good night's rest, but before that we went to the nearby restaurant for some coffee. Here you can see the price list: