Ice and Fire – Experiencing Iceland- Part 4

Read Part 3 here: Click Here

Day 9: Ytri Tunga Beach – Golden Sands and Playful Seals

We spent a peaceful and memorable day at Ytri Tunga Beach, a captivating spot on the southern coast of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Unlike most of Iceland’s black volcanic beaches, Ytri Tunga is known for its rare golden sands, which shimmer beautifully in the sunlight and offer a striking contrast to the surrounding dark lava landscapes.

The beach is especially famous for its thriving seal colony, and we were lucky to spend hours observing these graceful creatures lounging on the rocks and bobbing in the surf. Their playful antics and curious glances made for a truly heartwarming experience.

To make the area more accessible, new walking trails have been developed, allowing visitors to explore the shoreline more easily and get a little closer to the seals—without disturbing their natural habitat.

Surrounded by the sound of waves, fresh sea air, and the vast Icelandic sky, Ytri Tunga offered us a perfect blend of tranquility, wildlife, and raw natural beauty. 

Reykjavík, Here We Come

It was time to begin the final leg of our Icelandic adventure with a two-and-a-half-hour drive to Reykjavík, the vibrant capital of Iceland. As we approached the city, the landscape gradually shifted from wild natural wonders to the colourful charm and urban energy of Reykjavík.

For our two-night stay, we checked into Dream Soleyjargata Rooms & Apartments, a spacious and well-equipped accommodation that felt like a welcome pause.

 One of its biggest perks? A washing machine and dryer—a luxury after days on the road. We took full advantage, washing and drying all our clothes as we began to prepare—practically and emotionally—for the journey home in just a couple of days.

The city awaited us with its unique blend of culture, history, and modern Icelandic life. 

Evening Stroll Under the Midnight Sun

After settling into our apartment, we set out for a leisurely walk around Reykjavík at around 9 PM—and to our delight, the town was bathed in bright, golden sunlight. One of the most magical things about Iceland in summer is the midnight sun, where the skies remain luminous long after evening sets in.

The soft glow added a dreamlike quality to the streets, casting long shadows and highlighting the city’s colourful buildings and quiet charm. It was a surreal and beautiful experience—walking through twilight that never turns dark—as if time itself had gently paused to let us soak in every last detail.

Day 10: 

Free Walking Tour of Reykjavík – Stories, History, and Humor

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we set off with great enthusiasm for the Free Walking Tour of Reykjavík, one of the best ways to get to know the city from a local’s perspective.

The tour took us through the rich history of Iceland, the fascinating evolution of Reykjavík, and gave us insights into Icelandic culture and society, all delivered in an engaging and easy-to-understand manner. Our guide was not only knowledgeable but also had a sharp sense of humor, which made the experience both fun and memorable.

What made this tour particularly special was its non-commercial nature—there were no hidden promotions, stops at sponsored shops, or pressure to buy anything. At the end of the tour, each participant simply paid what they felt the experience was worth, making it a refreshingly genuine and accessible way to explore the heart of the city.

It was a perfect start to our day in Reykjavík—filled with learning, laughter, and a deeper appreciation of this remarkable country.

A Taste of Tradition at “Icelandic Street Food”

Later in the day, we decided it was time to sample another authentic Icelandic meal. We headed to “Icelandic Street Food,” a popular spot known for serving traditional Icelandic dishes in a casual, friendly setting. They offer unlimited refills of the soup and complimentary waffles with sugar and jam.

The concept behind the restaurant is simple but brilliant—it is Iceland’s first fast food place offering homemade Icelandic fare, designed to give visitors a taste of the country’s culinary heritage without the high price tag of fine dining. The recipes are passed down from the owner’s grandmother, adding a warm, personal touch to every bite. We ordered soups in hollowed-out bread bowls.

The food was nice and delicious, the staff was exceptionally courteous and welcoming, creating a relaxed atmosphere that made the experience even more enjoyable. It was a perfect way to connect with Icelandic culture—through food made with love and tradition.

Perlan – Nature, Ice, and the Northern Lights

Next, we headed to Perlan, Reykjavík’s iconic glass-domed exhibition center perched atop Öskjuhlíð Hill.

With its distinctive architecture and panoramic observation deck, Perlan offers not just sweeping views of the city and its surroundings, but also a world-class introduction to the wonders of Icelandic nature. Built atop six massive hot water tanks—four of which still store much of Reykjavík’s hot water supply—Perlan is both an engineering marvel and a hub of cultural and scientific exploration. Inside, the Wonders of Iceland exhibitions and the Natural History Museum of Iceland come together to create an immersive, educational, and often breathtaking experience.

One of the standout attractions is the Ice Cave and Glaciers Exhibition. Housed inside one of the former water tanks, this 100-meter-long manmade ice tunnel—built from real ice—is the only one of its kind in the world. Walking through its frozen corridors was surreal, a journey into the heart of Iceland’s glacial soul. 

As we exited, we stepped into a dynamic and interactive area dedicated to the country’s glaciers—their formation, significance, and the challenges they face due to climate change.

We also had the unique opportunity to watch Áróra, a mesmerizing 25-minute planetarium film about the northern lights. Projected inside the dome, it was a sensory experience that brought the aurora to life in a way that was both scientific and deeply moving.

Another highlight was the Forces of Nature exhibition, a deep dive into Iceland’s volcanic origins. Through stunning visuals and interactive displays, we learned about tectonic plates, earthquakes, geothermal energy, and how volcanoes have sculpted Iceland’s dramatic landscapes over millennia. Here are two heart touching exhibits at Perlan:

The fountain in the basement, mimicking an erupting geyser and shooting water up along a grand staircase to the fourth floor, added a playful and impressive touch to this already fascinating space. Perlan isn’t just a museum—it’s a celebration of Iceland’s raw, elemental beauty, both above and below the surface.

Now it was time for us to return to the Dream Soleyjargata Rooms & Apartments for a well deserved rest.

Day 11: The Blue Lagoon – A Soothing Farewell

As our unforgettable Icelandic adventure drew to a close, we reserved our final day for a visit to one of the country’s most iconic destinations—the Blue Lagoon. With our flight scheduled for the next morning, this was the perfect way to unwind, reflect, and soak in the magic of Iceland one last time.

Nestled amidst the stark, beautiful lava fields of the Reykjanes Peninsula, the Blue Lagoon is Iceland’s most famous geothermal spa, renowned for its milky-blue, mineral-rich waters and dramatic volcanic surroundings. Heated naturally by underground volcanic activity, the water remains a soothing 37–40°C year-round, offering a relaxing escape no matter the weather.

The lagoon's striking color comes from a unique blend of silica, algae, and minerals, known for their rejuvenating effects on the skin. Silica helps exfoliate and soften, while the algae are believed to enhance hydration and improve skin elasticity. It’s easy to see why this place has earned a reputation for healing and relaxation.

The first official swimming facilities opened here in 1987, and by 1992, a man-made bathing area was added—quickly gaining international attention for its calming atmosphere and natural beauty.

As we floated in the warm, ethereal waters, surrounded by ancient lava fields and a gentle mist rising into the crisp Icelandic air, it felt like a soulful farewell from the land of fire and ice. A perfect, peaceful ending to a journey filled with wonder, adventure, and the timeless beauty of nature. 

Raven’s Bed & Breakfast – A Symbolic Last Stop

For our final night in Iceland, we chose to stay at Raven’s Bed & Breakfast, just a seven-minute drive from the airport—perfect for an early morning departure.

 I was particularly drawn to this place because the raven is my totem animal, and I felt a special connection as we arrived. The energy of the space, however, felt slightly unsettled, so I offered some healing and clearing before we settled in for the night.

What made this stay even more intriguing was the sight of a stuffed raven inside the guesthouse—a symbolic and unexpected welcome that felt deeply personal.

Raven’s B&B is a distinctive and character-filled guesthouse, originally a traditional cow house located in Keflavík, on the Reykjanes Peninsula. In 2013, the current owners lovingly restored the building, transforming it into a warm and rustic bed and breakfast. They chose to preserve original features like wooden beams and historical artifacts, giving the place a charming blend of Icelandic heritage and homely comfort.

It felt like a quiet, reflective pause at the threshold between our journey through Iceland’s raw beauty and the return to our everyday world.

                                                                The driving route

Was It Really a Dream Vacation?

When we planned our Iceland trip, I truly believed it would be a dream vacation. But, surprisingly, I found myself disappointed.

Having travelled across the world for decades and written numerous travelogues, I assumed documenting Iceland would be just another delightful experience. Instead, writing this travelogue turned out to be the most challenging of them all.

One of the main reasons was that I didn’t get time to write my daily diary. Our days were packed, and due to the high cost of eating out, we cooked our meals every day. This left no time to pause or reflect, and I found myself unable to truly enjoy the journey while living it. It was only after returning home, sitting with our photographs, that I slowly began to relive the moments. Ironically, I began enjoying the trip while writing about it.

Another layer of discomfort came from something less tangible. Energetically, the place didn’t exude the peace and joy I usually seek—and often find—on my travels. This surprised me, especially since Iceland frequently ranks among the world’s happiest countries. It is also one of the most expensive countries to live in. In 2023, for example, Iceland’s average annual salary (€81,942) was second only to Switzerland(€106,839), according to global rankings. But as a spiritual healer, I know well that money alone does not create happiness.

During our Reykjavík walking tour, the guide proudly shared that Iceland has one of the lowest crime rates in the world—just two murders per year, thanks to a strong sense of community, a small, tight-knit population, and solid social support systems.

But then something struck me deeply. Over the past decade (2014–2023), Iceland has seen an average of 40 suicides per year—a stark number for such a small population. That, I believe, tells a different story. Additionally, Iceland has one of the highest rates of antidepressant use globally, with a 2017 OECD study ranking it at the very top.

As someone sensitive to energy, and attuned to the emotional undercurrents of places, I couldn’t ignore these deeper truths. Beneath the postcard beauty and statistical successes, there seemed to be an emotional heaviness—a silent struggle that often goes unnoticed by tourists.

And so, while Iceland dazzled the eyes, it didn’t quite touch the soul the way I had hoped. Perhaps this wasn’t the dream vacation I imagined. But it was certainly a lesson in expectations, perception, and presence—and in that way, a journey worth taking.

  

References:

https://citywalk.is/tour/free-walking-tour-reykjavik/

https://www.chowhound.com/1888022/famous-iceland-hot-dog-stand/

https://www.icelandicfoods.com/

https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/perlan

http://ravensbnb.is/

https://www.euronews.com/business/2023/11/24/switzerland-and-iceland-highest-payers-across-the-eu-and-eea

https://island.is/en/tolfraedi-um-sjalfsvig/skraning-sjalfsviga-og-tulkun-talna

 

 

Ice and Fire – Experiencing Iceland- Part 3

Read Part 2 here : Click Here 

Day 6: Whale Watching and Local Flavors

A whale-watching tour is one of the most memorable experiences you can have in Iceland. Húsavík, often called the “Whale-Watching Capital of Iceland,” is a must-visit destination. Tours from Húsavík are led by experienced guides who share valuable insights about whale behavior, marine conservation, and the surrounding landscapes. The calm northern waters are a thriving haven for marine life, making sightings both likely and spectacular.

Akureyri – The “Capital of the North”

Akureyri is the largest city in North Iceland and the second-largest urban area in the country. Nestled at the base of Eyjafjörður fjord, it serves as a vital hub for trade, services, culture, and education in the region.

The name Akureyri is derived from Akur (“field”) and Eyri (“sandbank” or “spit of land”), reflecting its location where fertile land meets the sea. Permanent settlement began here in 1778 with the construction of the first residential buildings. Early residents supported themselves by selling agricultural products such as meat and wool to Danish merchants.

In 1867, Norwegian settlers in Eyjafjörður discovered the area’s abundant herring stocks—often described as a figurative “herring gold mine.” This discovery transformed Akureyri into a fishing powerhouse, a legacy that continues today with several fishing companies still in operation.

Eyjafjörður - Iceland's longest fjord

Situated in North Iceland, Eyjafjörður stretches over 60 kilometers, making it the longest fjord in the country. It is renowned for its breathtaking scenery—steep mountain slopes, tranquil waters, and the vibrant town of Akureyri at its southern end.

The fjord’s nutrient-rich waters support a diverse range of marine life. It is one of the few places where you might glimpse the majestic blue whale, the largest animal on Earth. The ecosystem also includes unique species such as the ocean quahog—a long-living clam known to reach centuries in age and considered an important marine resource.

Plokkfiskur and Kjötsúpa – Savoring Local Flavors

No journey is complete without tasting the soul of a place through its food. After a bit of online research and gathering tips from friendly locals, we set our sights on two beloved Icelandic dishes: Plokkfiskur and Kjötsúpa.

Plokkfiskur, which translates to “plucked” or “mashed fish,” is a comforting traditional dish made from fish, potatoes, onions, and béchamel sauce. Thick, creamy, and satisfying, it’s the kind of food that warms you from the inside out. While typically cooked on the stovetop, modern takes on Plokkfiskur turn it into a baked casserole, topped with cheese or buttered breadcrumbs for extra texture and flavor.

Kjötsúpa, one of Iceland’s most iconic dishes, is a lamb soup made with winter root vegetables. True to Nordic culinary tradition, the recipe is simple and seasonal, often seasoned only with salt and pepper to allow the pure flavours of the ingredients to shine through.

These specialties came highly recommended at Naustið, a charming family-run restaurant with a bright, nautical-inspired interior. Naustið prides itself on using high-quality, locally sourced ingredients—fresh seafood, homegrown vegetables, locally raised meat, and freshly baked breads and cakes made in-house daily. The care and authenticity reflected in every bite made the experience truly memorable.

A Restful Night at Helluland Guesthouse

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Helluland Guesthouse, where we had our night’s stay booked. Located in the charming town of Sauðárkrókur, this unique guesthouse carries with it a piece of local history.

Originally built in 1907, Helluland is believed to be one of the first concrete houses constructed in the area. For decades, it served as a residence for farming families who lived and worked on the surrounding land. In 2016, the house was lovingly renovated and transformed into a cozy guesthouse, offering shared living spaces and a well-equipped kitchen for guests.

What truly sets Helluland apart is its setting. From the property, we were treated to sweeping views of the river, majestic mountains, and the vast sea—an unforgettable panorama that perfectly framed the tranquility of northern Iceland.

Day 7: Northwest Iceland

 Lava Fields and Legends

Our journey through Northwest Iceland took us to Berserkjahraun, a hauntingly beautiful 4,000-year-old lava field located on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Formed by a series of eruptions from four nearby scoria craters, the lava once flowed from the slopes of Bjarnarhafnarfjall all the way to the sea at Hraunsfjörður and Hraunsvík.

Today, Berserkjahraun is one of Iceland’s most striking landscapes. The jagged black lava rocks, now softened by a blanket of vibrant green moss, create a surreal, almost otherworldly scene—at once rugged and poetic.

But this lava field is not only geologically fascinating; it’s steeped in Icelandic legend. According to the Eyrbyggja Saga, a farmer once brought two Swedish berserkers—fierce Viking warriors—to the peninsula. One of them fell in love with the daughter of Víga-Styr, the farmer’s brother who lived on the far side of the lava field.

In response, Víga-Styr set the berserkers an impossible task: to clear a path through the lava field to his brother’s farm. To everyone’s amazement, they completed the challenge with great strength and determination. However, rather than honoring his promise, Víga-Styr betrayed them. Legend has it that he murdered the two warriors and buried them near the very path they had carved. 

The moss-covered rocks seemed to whisper remnants of this saga as we walked through the eerie, captivating terrain—nature and myth entwined in Iceland’s timeless way.

Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss – Icons of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

No visit to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is complete without experiencing the iconic Kirkjufell Mountain, often hailed as the most photographed peak in Iceland. Rising dramatically near the town of Grundarfjörður, its name—Kirkjufell—translates to “Church Mountain,” a reference to its elegant, steeple-like shape.

This breathtaking mountain gained international fame after being featured in the acclaimed series Game of Thrones, where it appeared as the mysterious Mt. Arrowhead. Since then, Kirkjufell has become a must-see landmark, drawing photographers, filmmakers, and nature lovers alike, all eager to capture its striking silhouette.

Just a short walk away lies the equally captivating Kirkjufellsfoss, a charming trio of waterfalls cascading along the Kirkjufellsá river, which originates from the Helgrindur volcano. 

Though modest in height—just five meters—the falls are beloved for the perfect composition they create with the mountain in the background. When viewed from the right angle, the scene appears almost surreal: the triangular peak rising behind the flowing water, forming one of Iceland’s most picture-perfect vistas.

Standing before this natural masterpiece, it's easy to see why Kirkjufell and its falls are etched into the hearts of all who visit.

The Freezer Hostel – A Creative Retreat on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

After changing hostels daily, we were looking forward to a two-night stay at the Freezer Hostel, located in the village of Rif on the western edge of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Unlike typical hostels, the Freezer is a unique blend of creativity and comfort—it’s a former fish processing factory transformed into a vibrant artsy hostel and professional theatre.

Our room featured a private bathroom (a welcome change from the usual shared facilities), though bath towels were only available for rent. The communal kitchen was bright, clean, and fully equipped, it made meal prep easy and enjoyable.

What truly sets this place apart is the Freezer Cultural Centre, which offers movie nights, quizzes, and karaoke evenings open to all guests. Next door, the Freezer Theatre hosts regular concerts featuring local and international bands, as well as performances inspired by Icelandic folklore, history, and mythology.  

Unfortunately, there were no live events during our stay, but the creative atmosphere and cozy charm of the place still made it a memorable stop on our journey.

Day 8 : Exploring Snæfellsnes National Park – Saxhóll Crater

We began our morning by heading into Snæfellsnes National Park, a region known for its striking natural beauty and geological wonders. The peninsula is rich with diverse landscapes—lava fields, glaciers, dramatic coastlines, and volcanic formations—all waiting to be explored. Our first stop was the Saxhóll Crater, one of the park’s most accessible volcanic sites. A sturdy staircase of 396 steps leads to the summit, which stands 109 meters above sea level. 

From the top, we were rewarded with panoramic views of the surrounding lava fields and the vast Atlantic horizon.

The crater last erupted around 3,000 to 4,000 years ago, spewing molten magma at temperatures near 1,000 degrees Celsius. Today, it stands as a silent monument to the peninsula’s volcanic past, offering visitors a chance to walk quite literally in the footsteps of ancient fire.

Vatnshellir Cave – A Journey into the Earth

Our next adventure took us deep beneath the surface with a tour of Vatnshellir Cave—an experience that felt like stepping into another world. Located on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, this remarkable lava tube is one of Iceland’s oldest, formed nearly 8,000 years ago during a volcanic eruption.

Vatnshellir was created when a river of molten lava began cooling from the outside in. As the outer layer solidified, the hot lava within continued to flow, eventually draining away and leaving behind a hollow tunnel beneath the earth’s surface.

Today, the cave stretches 200 meters in length and descends to a depth of 35 meters. A spiral staircase leads visitors down into the cave, but once inside, the terrain is rugged and unpaved.

There’s no artificial lighting—just the beam from your torch—so a moderate level of fitness and steady footing is essential.

The walls of the cave are beautifully colored by the minerals left behind by the lava. Red hues reveal iron deposits, yellow tones mark the presence of sulfur, and green streaks hint at traces of copper. 

The highlight of the tour comes at its deepest point, where everyone is invited to switch off their lights and stand in complete, utter darkness—a moment of awe, silence, and a touch of the surreal. It was a humbling reminder of the raw, ancient forces that shaped this land.

Arnarstapi village

Our next destination was Arnarstapi, a picturesque fishing village on the southern coast of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Though small in size, Arnarstapi is rich in history, folklore, and dramatic natural beauty. Surrounded by sea cliffs, lava fields, and sculpted rock formations, the village offers a peaceful yet powerful sense of place.

This natural harbor has drawn settlers for centuries and rose to prominence as a bustling trading post during Danish rule in the mid-1500s. Its historical roots run deep, both in recorded history and Icelandic legend.

One of the earliest references to Arnarstapi comes from the Bárðar Saga Snæfellsás, which tells the tale of Bárður, a mysterious figure said to be half-human, half-ogre—born of a giant father and a human mother. According to the saga, Bárður once lived on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and, after retreating into the glacier, became its guardian spirit. Even today, locals speak of him with reverence, and his presence is said to watch over the land and its people.

Walking through Arnarstapi feels like stepping into the pages of a myth—where every cliff and stone might hold a secret, and the winds seem to carry whispers from another world.

There are many natural wonders in Arnarstapi and its surrounding to captivate travellers: 

Lóndrangar – The Watchtowers of the Coast

They stand like ancient towers along the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. . These towering rock pinnacles are remnants of a massive volcanic crater, sculpted by the relentless forces of wind and sea over millions of years. Locals claim the cliffs belong to the elves, spiritual beings that are said to guard the land. Out of respect, many Icelanders avoid disturbing the area, allowing nature and spirit to coexist undisturbed.

Standing at the edge, watching the waves crash against the base of the cliffs and the seabirds circle above, one can’t help but feel the quiet magic that seems to linger in the air.

Gatklettur – The Hellnar Arch and the Hidden Rifts

Along the dramatic coastline between Arnarstapi and Hellnar lies Gatklettur, often referred to as the Hellnar Arch, a stunning natural stone arch sculpted by centuries of wind and sea.

Nearby are three naturally formed rifts—Hundagjá, Miðgjá, and Músagjá—each a testament to the geological dynamism of this region. These fissures were created by powerful tectonic forces and now form part of the scenic Arnarstapi coastal walk, which winds through lava cliffs, bird colonies, and ocean-sculpted rock formations.

Of particular interest is Músagjá, a fascinating rift that marks the boundary between two tectonic plates. It’s a quiet yet awe-inspiring spot where you can literally stand between the Eurasian and North American plates—an unforgettable moment that connects you to the living geology of Iceland. 

Now it was time to go back to the Freezer Hostel for a good night's rest, but before that we went to the nearby restaurant for some coffee. Here you can see the price list:

Go to Part 4 : Click Here

References:

https://guidetoiceland.is/nature-info/whale-watching-in-iceland

https://adventures.is/iceland/attractions/akureyri/

https://elding.is/wonders-eyjafjordur-fjord

https://adamantkitchen.com/plokkfiskur/

https://www.thespruceeats.com/kjotsupa-icelandic-lamb-soup-2952929

https://visithusavik.com/food-and-drinks/restaurants/naustid-restaurant/

https://www.hiticeland.com/post/mt-kirkjufell-and-kirkjufellsfoss-waterfall

 

Ice and Fire – Experiencing Iceland – Part 2

 Read Part 1 here: Click Here

Day 3: Southeast Iceland

We began the day with excitement in our hearts, heading toward one of Iceland’s most iconic destinations—the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.

Eldhraun lava field

As we traveled along Iceland’s south coast, we caught glimpses from the road of the vast and hauntingly beautiful Eldhraun lava field—said to be the largest lava flow of its kind in the world. Stretching across an astonishing 565 square kilometers Eldhraun (“Fire Lava”) was formed during the catastrophic Lakagígar crater eruption of 1783–1784. This eruption is counted among the greatest in recorded history, and it left a profound mark not only on Iceland but on the entire Northern Hemisphere.

Scientists consider the Laki eruption one of the most poisonous in historical times. It unleashed toxic gases that caused crop failures, livestock deaths, and severe famine in Iceland—leading to the loss of 53% to 82% of domestic animals and about 20% of the human population. The eruption’s effects were felt worldwide, contributing to extreme weather and failed harvests across Europe.

The stark, black lava fields left behind were once an unwelcoming wasteland. Today, however, Eldhraun is draped in a thick, spongy blanket of vibrant green moss. This moss cover transforms the harsh, jagged lava into an otherworldly landscape of rolling, velvety forms. It’s Iceland’s largest moss-covered lava field, offering a striking contrast between the raw violence of volcanic creation and the slow, patient reclamation of life.

Remarkably, it can take more than a hundred years for this moss to fully establish on the barren lava, thanks to its need for precisely the right balance of moisture and cool temperatures. Its delicate, spongy structure retains water and supports a fragile but important ecosystem. So sensitive is this moss that visitors are urged not to walk on it, to help preserve its otherworldly beauty for generations to come.

Interestingly, this alien landscape was so reminiscent of another world that it served as a training ground for the Apollo 11 astronauts as they prepared for their historic moon landing.

Mount Lomagnupur

Mount Lomagnupur is 181 miles (292 kilometers) east of Iceland's capital, Reykjavik. With its position along Route 1, it is easy to get the attraction. One of the most striking is its flat peak, estimated to be over a million years old. This plateau is mostly of palagonite composition, a volcanic mineral that forms when water and volcanic glass mix. 

Its origins are most likely from volcanic eruptions underneath the Ice Age glaciers. The forefront of the mountain, also locally known as the “nose of Lomagnupur mountain” (Lomagnupsnef), was formerly a sea cliff from when the sea was farther inland thousands of years ago.

Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon

There are some spectacular canyons in Iceland, and Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon in South Iceland is one of them. It has a unique winding shape. Ropes had been put up in several places to prevent people from going out to all areas and to protect nature. 

A forceful glacial river ran from the glacier edge through Fjaðrárgljúfur about 9-10,000 years ago, to create this majestic canyon through the progressive erosion of the palagonite, leaving only the harder rock behind.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon was a true highlight of our trip. Jökulsárlón is a stunning glacial lagoon in southeastern Iceland, located at the head of the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier, which is part of the larger Vatnajökull ice cap. It's famous for its crystal-clear blue waters dotted with icebergs of various shapes and sizes that have calved from the glacier. The icebergs in the lagoon are made of compressed ice, which gives them their brilliant blue colour. 

The lagoon is connected to the Atlantic Ocean by a short river, and icebergs often wash ashore on the nearby black sand beach, known as Diamond Beach. We had a glimpse of the Diamond Beach, just across the road from Jökulsárlón. Here, icebergs that had calved off the glacier floated out to sea and washed ashore, glittering like diamonds on the black volcanic sand. The contrast of sparkling ice against the jet-black beach was mesmerizing.

By evening, we continued our journey east along the winding coastal road to reach Guesthouse Hafnarnes, our stop for the night. 

Tired but deeply content, we fell asleep with memories of icebergs and lava fields fresh in our minds.

Day 4: The Eastfjords

We set out early for one of our longer drives—nearly five hours through the remote and rugged Eastfjords. a region in eastern Iceland, characterized by a rugged, mountainous coastline deeply indented by numerous fjords(a long narrow piece of sea between cliffs).Fjords are characterized by their unique and picturesque geological formations, including deep, narrow inlets, steep cliffs, and U-shaped valleys, creating a visually striking landscape.

Fardagafoss

Blábjörg (Blue Cliffs)

Blábjörg cliffs, national monument, were and formed in a pyroclastic flow in a huge phreatic eruption that took place here some 9-10 million years ago. The locals believe that it has got supernatural powers.

Though called 'blue cliffs', actually they lookmore green than blue. 

The "Eggs at Merry Bay" (Eggin í Gleðivík)

The "Eggs at Merry Bay" (Eggin í Gleðivík) is a unique outdoor art installation in Djúpivogur, Iceland, featuring 34 large granite eggs, each representing a different bird species native to the area. Artist Sigurður Guðmundsson created these sculptures, which are arranged along the coastline of Gleðivík bay. The biggest egg symbolizes the red-throated diver, the official bird of Djúpivogur.

By late afternoon, we reached Egilsstaðir, our base for the night at Lyngás Guesthouse. We settled in and planned the next day’s adventure into North Iceland.

Day 5: North Iceland

From there, we set off on a long but rewarding drive to Dettifoss, Iceland’s most powerful waterfall. Even from afar, its thunderous roar was unmistakable. A short 20-minute hike from the parking area brought us to the canyon’s edge, where the mighty falls plunged 45 meters into the Jökulsárgljúfur canyon below. The sheer force of the water was breathtaking, and the mist drenched us even at a distance—a raw, unforgettable encounter with nature’s power.

Námafjall Hverir Geothermal Area

Our journey continued west to the Námafjall Geothermal Area, also known as Hverir or Hverarönd. This surreal landscape of fumaroles, bubbling mud pools, and hissing steam vents felt almost unearthly. The vivid mineral colors and strange rock formations were mesmerizing, though the strong sulfur smell—like rotten eggs—was impossible to ignore. Some zones were carefully roped off for safety due to dangerously high ground temperatures.

Grjótagjá Cave

Next, we visited Grjótagjá Cave, a small lava cave near Lake Mývatn famed for its beautiful geothermal hot spring.  Once a popular bathing spot for locals, the water’s temperature became dangerously hot following volcanic activity in the 1970s. Authorities later fenced off the cave to prevent accidents. Fans of Game of Thrones may recognize this evocative location from its appearance in the series.

                                                          Creek above  Grjotagja Lava Cave

Krafla Víti Crater

We also stopped at the dramatic Krafla Víti Crater, part of a volcanic system with a 10 km diameter and a 90 km-long fissure zone. One of Iceland’s most striking and active volcanoes, Krafla is notorious for its violent history, having erupted 29 times over the past 1,200 years. Its geothermal energy today powers Iceland’s largest geothermal plant—a testament to the island’s ability to harness its raw natural forces.

Incredibly beautiful Lake Mývatn

Mývatn is a shallow lake situated in an area of active volcanism in the north of Iceland, near Krafla volcano. The volcanic Lake Myvatn area covers an area of 37 square km, making it Iceland's 4th largest lake.

Goðafoss – The Waterfall of the Gods

We ended our day at Goðafoss, the “Waterfall of the Gods,” a short yet spectacular horseshoe-shaped cascade considered one of Iceland’s most beautiful sights. According to legend, pagan idols were thrown into its waters when Iceland converted to Christianity—a moment of symbolic transformation immortalized in the landscape itself.

By nightfall, we reached Húsavík and checked into the Green Hostel, ready for a well-earned rest. Though our room was quite small with bunk beds, the kitchen and reception areas were inviting and comfortable.

GeoSea Geothermal Sea Baths

My daughter was eager to visit the GeoSea Geothermal Sea Baths, and she found the experience deeply satisfying. This world-class spa in North Iceland features naturally heated seawater with stunning views over the North Atlantic. 

Rich in natural minerals and famous for their rejuvenating properties, the pools are prized by locals for their ability to relax muscles, soothe skin, and improve circulation—a perfect way to end a day of adventure in the wild north.

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References:

https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/solheimajokull

https://adventures.is/iceland/attractions/solheimajokull/

https://amazingiceland.is/destination/reynisdrangar/ 

https://www.lavashow.com/

https://www.icelandtravel.is/attractions/eldhraun-lava-field/

https://www.motorhomeiceland.com/blog/grjotagja