Wednesday, October 16, 2019

Myanmar- the land of golden pagodas and tasty pakodas – Part 3

Part 2 - Click here

Mawlamyine is the fourth biggest city in Myanmar and famous for its nearby sights and attractions, especially the largest reclining Buddha in Myanmar. The Mon name which was previously used for Mawlamyine, Moulmein means "damaged eye" or "one-eyed man." According to legend, a Mon king had a powerful third eye in the centre of his forehead, able to see what was happening in neighbouring kingdoms. The daughter of one of the neighbouring kings was given in marriage to the three-eyed king and managed to destroy the third eye.
Mawlamyine is a unique combination of landscape, beauty and melancholy. The setting inspired both George Orwell and Rudyard Kipling, two of the English-language writers most associated with Myanmar. Kipling penned his famous poem 'Mandalay' after visiting, while Orwell, whose maternal grandmother was born here, used Mawlamyine as the backdrop for the essays 'Shooting an Elephant' and 'A Hanging'.

Win Sein Taw Ya

Win Sein Taw Ya is a 560ft-long reclining Buddha, which is one of the largest such images in the world. It is a massive construction with 500 roadside monk statues. We could go inside this huge statue and visit different rooms that showcase dioramas of the teachings of Buddha and a shrine. It is surrounded by a forest of other pagodas and shrines.


Khat Ya Khat Yu Pagoda, Sitting Big Buddha


Then there was this huge sitting Buddha, which has a pagoda and museum inside.


Kyaikkami Yele Pagoda


Kyaikkami is a city in Mon State, Myanmar. Kyaikkami Yele Pagoda or Kyaik-kami Ye Le Paya was constructed on the sea using the natural foundation of its ocean reefs, which is connected with the corridor to the beach. It is said that even during the rainy season the sea water never passes base of the Pagoda area. Women are only allowed to worship from a pavilion away from the shrine while men can do so from the hall facing the main image.
We had nice lunch from a shack on the sea shore, then bought some local sweets and enjoyed the candied orange, orange peels cut into small pieces and grated, sweetened with palm syrup.
 

Uzina pagoda and Kyeik Than Lan Pagoda


This is another attractively laid out temple surrounding a giant gold-leaf clad stupa. The stupa has connecting west, south and north shrines (east is the main entrance). According to legend the temple was constructed by a monk named Uzina who dreamt of a buried treasure located at this spot. After digging around a bit he came across a fabulous stash of gems. From the proceeds he financed the construction of the temple. When we came down after visiting the shrine, we saw an Indian selling awesome pakodas. How could we leave without enjoying those hot pakodas?
The Kyeik Than Lan pagoda was erected in 875 A.D. during the reign of King Mutpi Raja. A hair relic of the Buddha, Tripitaka manuscripts and gold images of the Buddha were enshrined in the pagoda. There are 34 small pagodas called Zediyan surrounding the pagoda. Kyeik Than Lan was the pagoda that the famous English poet Rudyard kipling wrote about in his poem “Mandalay” which opens with the line: By the old Moulmein Pagoda, looking lazy at the sea”.

Kyaik Htee Saung Pagoda

Kyaik Htee Saung Pagoda is located on a laterite stone hillock near the town of Bilin. The hillock itself is formed by the layering of laterite stones on top of one another, forming a large square that gradually tapers upward. In the 236 Buddhist Era, King Culasirimasoka of Thuwunna Bonmi enshrined a tooth relic of the Buddha in the pagoda. 

Over time, the pagoda became derelict due to a lack of care. The umbrella of the pagoda started tilting. Because of this, the pagoda was called Kyaik Htee saung, which means "The Pagoda with Tilting Umbrella" in the Mon language.
Here the body of a monk was kept in a casket. When I looked at the photograph of the monk, I noticed his deep penetrating eyes and the whole place felt very powerful. 

There was another monk visiting here and there were lot of people waiting peacefully for his darshan. 
After that we had a long drive to Yangon, checked into a nice hotel ‘Lotus bed and breakfast’. A nice local couple (husband originally from India and wife from Nepal) took us to an Indian restaurant for dinner. Next day morning I had a nice interaction with local dentists after giving an Endodontic presentation. 
Then we met a Reiki channel, an interesting lady, at the ‘Nourish Cafe’, a vegan restaurant.
We started the drive from Yangon to Inlay lake, since it was a long drive, halted for the night in Taungoo at the ‘Mother’s house hotel’. It was a huge property with a nice garden and carvings.
Next day after a long drive we reached Inlay Lake in Shan state, checked into Hotel Remember Inn. Then we went out to watch a beautiful sunset and fixed boat ride for the next morning.  


At 8 am we reached the pier and I gasped on seeing the puny boat on which we will be riding almost the whole day. But they were very professional and can you imagine, in spite of getting down at many places and getting back into the boat, our clothes never got wet. They gave us umbrellas to keep off the harsh Sun. We saw the floating village and floating tomato cultivation, and a fisherman balancing on one leg on the corner of his small boat and fishing.

The Phaung Daw Oo pagoda


The Phaung Daw Oo pagoda is the most highly revered monastery in the Inle Lake area, housing five ancient images of the Buddha that are completely covered in golf leaf. It is reached by boat from Inlay Lake to the landing pier.
We had lunch in a floating restaurant and proceeded to Shwe Inn Thein pagoda. After getting out from the boat and walking for a short distance, we noticed that it was a long walk and the weather was too hot. Right then motor bike taxi persons came and took us to the pagoda.

The Shwe Indein Pagoda

Shwe Inn Thein Paya is a complex of 1054 weather-beaten zedi (stupas), constructed in the 17th and 18th centuries. Some of the zedi lean at crazy angles while others have been reconstructed. The stupas range from golden to brick to white washed to crumbled.

Long necked women

Our last stop was to visit women of the Kayan tribes. Women of the Kayan Lahwi tribe are well known for wearing neck rings, brass coils that are placed around the neck, appearing to lengthen it. The women wearing these coils are known as "giraffe women" to tourists. Girls first start to wear rings when they are around 5 years old. Over the years, the coil is replaced by a longer one and more turns are added. The weight of the brass pushes the collar bone down and compresses the rib cage.
The coil, once on, is seldom removed, as the coiling and uncoiling is a lengthy procedure. It is usually only removed to be replaced by a new or longer coil. Some say the rings would offer protection from tiger attacks often aiming right for the neck, others speculate it would keep rival tribes from abducting the women by lessening their beauty. Most likely it would be the opposite, the sheer beauty and pride in putting emphasis on the womens’ necks, giving the Kayan a divine grace.


The great dinner


After the wonderful boat ride we went back to the room, took some rest, went to ‘The Ancestor restaurant’ and had the best dinner we had in Mayanmar. The owner was a very friendly person and we had a long chat. He told the restaurant was started by his grandparents and now it is the third generation running it. So it was given the current name. The dessert, fried banana in coconut milk (not there in the picture) was just soo divine!


Part 4 - Click here

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