Iceland is a land where the Earth speaks in extremes—where fire and ice coexist in a breathtaking, almost surreal harmony. Volcanoes rumble beneath the surface while glaciers, vast and ancient, silently sculpt the land above. This island nation stands as a living testament to the raw, untamed forces of nature. As a local person remarked to us, “Here the Nature is out to kill us.” From steaming geothermal springs to towering ice caps, every landscape feels like a myth come alive. Travelling through Iceland is not just a journey across terrain, but a deep encounter with the fiery heart and frozen breath of the Earth itself.
Powerful geological forces affect our entire planet, but nowhere are they more apparent than in Iceland. Just below the earth’s surface molten rock flows. Ash clouds created by volcanic eruptions block out the sky. Meltwater floods larger than Amazon River are generated by sub glacial eruptions. Earthquakes shake the ground with explosive force. Eruptions and lava flows create new lakes and islands, reshaping the landscape.
Driving Through a Land of Extremes
The best way
to explore Iceland is undoubtedly by car—freedom, flexibility, and the promise
of discovery around every bend. We had pre-booked a rental vehicle, and upon
arrival, were greeted not by a warm welcome, but by a steady drizzle. After
retrieving our luggage, we found ourselves hurriedly unpacking at the air port,
pulling out raincoats before walking through the wet to catch the shuttle to
the car rental office.
Our journey
began with a two-and-a-half-hour drive to the Historic Guest House where we would spend our
first night. That drive was nothing short of a dramatic initiation. Rain gave
way to hail, then snow, and suddenly—sunshine. The weather shifted with startling
speed, cycling through all four seasons in mere minutes, only to repeat the
dance again and again. It was as if the land itself was showing us its power,
testing our readiness to explore its wild and unpredictable beauty.
But amidst
this elemental chaos came a moment of wonder—a vast, vivid rainbow stretched
across the sky, its colors unbelievably crisp and luminous. It felt like a
blessing from the land, a reward for braving its moods.
Over the next
11 days, we drove across diverse landscapes, exploring the country during day
time and resting in hostels at night. Most stops were for a night each, though
we lingered a little longer in our final two destinations, staying two days at
each to soak in the stillness after the road’s long rhythm. Heradsskolinn
Historic Guesthouse was the hostel we stayed on the day of arrival. Here you
can read about it:
Food on the Road: A Well-Planned Affair
One aspect of
travelling in Iceland that demands careful planning is food. Restaurants can be
prohibitively expensive, and many hostels don’t provide even basic amenities
like tea or coffee. Anticipating this, we came prepared—with instant coffee and
ginger tea sachets that required only hot water, and a clear plan for daily
meals.
My idea was to make simple, nourishing vegetable pulao for lunch each day. I carried rice, cumin seeds, and a homemade blend of masala powder, along with an electric rice cooker. The cooker proved especially useful on the first day when we stayed in a place with no kitchen facility. For a spicy accompaniment, I had packed Kerala-style ‘idichammanthi’, and for breakfast, I made and packed peanut butter and bought some mixed fruit jam.
Fresh
vegetables for the pulao, salad greens, yogurt, bread, butter, and milk were
picked up from local grocery stores along the way. Each morning, after our bath
and breakfast, I would cook the pulao, pack it neatly, and by 9 a.m., we’d be
ready to begin the day’s explorations. Around lunchtime, we would pull into a
(paid) parking spot, and enjoy our home-style meal inside the warmth of the
car—an experience that, despite its simplicity, felt grounding and comforting.
Most
hostels allowed check-in around 4 p.m. Once we settled in, we’d make tea or
coffee and enjoy it with snacks brought from India—banana chips, mixture, khakra,salted
seeds, and dry fruits. Evenings were relaxed; sometimes we’d rest, or if there
was something nearby worth seeing, we’d head out again, often rewarded with the
kind of quiet beauty that Iceland reveals after hours.
Automatic check-ins and check-out
Check-ins and check-outs in Iceland are typically self-managed—an efficient system that reflects the country’s low population density and trust-based culture. Before arriving at each hostel, we would receive an email with instructions on how to retrieve our room key. A numbered lockbox would be placed outside the building, and by entering the provided code, we could access the key without the need for any staff interaction. When leaving, the key simply had to be returned to the same box.
This streamlined system made sense once we understood the demographics of the country. With a land area of approximately 103,000 square kilometers and a population of around 384,000, Iceland averages just four people per square kilometer. Human resources, especially in the hospitality sector, are therefore used judiciously.
The Icelandic population is primarily descended from Norse and Celtic settlers who arrived during the Viking Age, beginning around 874 AD. While most hailed from Norway, a significant number also came from Scotland and Ireland, creating a unique genetic and cultural blend. Today, most of the workforce remains Icelandic, although there's a noticeable contribution from workers across the European Union and beyond. Among these, Polish and Lithuanian nationals form a prominent part of the foreign labour force, supporting various sectors from tourism to construction.
Day 1- Chasing Geysers and Waterfalls: Daylight Adventures in May
In May, Iceland begins its gentle transformation into the land of the midnight sun. Daylight hours stretch luxuriously long—from about 17 hours at the start of the month to nearly 21 by the end. With the sun setting late in the evening, every day feels endless, offering more time to explore and experience the dramatic landscapes.
However, long daylight brings its own quirks. At Heradsskolinn Historic Guesthouse, not all the windows had blackout blinds, making it feel as though we were sleeping in broad daylight. After a somewhat light and restless sleep, I looked out of the window to a breathtaking view—snow-dusted ground and distant mountains gleaming in soft morning light.
By 9 a.m., we were on the road to our first stop: the Strokkur geyser in the Haukadalur geothermal valley—part of Iceland’s famous Golden Circle. Known for its frequent and reliable eruptions, Strokkur shoots boiling water 15–20 meters into the air every 6–10 minutes, occasionally reaching as high as 40 meters. Though we were met with drizzle, snow, and strong winds, we waited patiently for the eruption—and it was worth every chilled minute. Seeing nature so forcefully alive was a thrill.
The Science Behind the Spectacle
Geyser eruptions are not only awe-inspiring, but also fascinating in their mechanics. Deep underground, water is heated by geothermal activity. As it becomes superheated, pressure builds until the water explosively escapes to the surface in a dramatic jet—what we witness as a geyser eruption. It’s a reminder of Iceland’s living, breathing earth beneath our feet.
Just a short distance away lies the Geysir geothermal area, a geothermal park that bubbles atop a vast boiling cauldron of energy. Here, sulfurous mud pots burble in vibrant hues, steam vents hiss from the earth, and both hot and cold springs mingle across a stunning landscape. Geysir itself—now mostly dormant—is known as the “grandfather of all geysers.” The valley first entered historical records in 1294, following powerful earthquakes that reshaped the land and gave rise to many of its now-famous geothermal features. Today, over 40 distinct sites fill the area with mystery and magic, each identified with names carved into stones that serve as quiet guides through this surreal terrain.
Gullfoss: The Golden Waterfall
A ten-minute drive brought us to “Gullfoss”, the Golden Waterfall—one of Iceland’s most iconic natural landmarks. Together with Þingvellir and the geysers of Haukadalur, Gullfoss forms the celebrated Golden Circle, a must-see route for most visitors to the island. Gullfoss is both Iceland’s best-known waterfall and one of its most visually striking, thanks to its dramatic two-tiered cascade plunging a total of 32 meters into a narrow canyon. The roaring water, the misty spray, and the sheer power of the falls left a lasting impression.
Kerið: A Volcanic Heartbeat
Our final stop for the day was the “Kerið Crater”, a dormant volcanic caldera that last erupted about 6,500 years ago. Walking along the rim of this vast crater, now filled with a striking aquamarine lake, was a great experience. The lake’s vivid color comes from minerals leached from the surrounding soil, creating a serene pool within the crater’s raw and rugged edge. To stand near a place once filled with fire, now transformed into stillness and color, was humbling and beautiful.
We ended the day at “The Coffee House” in Selfoss—a cozy guesthouse with hostel-style accommodations and a shared kitchen. After a long day immersed in steam, snow, and spray, the warmth of a shared cup of tea and some snacks felt just right.
Day 2 – Glacier and Black sand beach
Our second day began with visits
to two of Iceland’s most iconic waterfalls—Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss.
Iceland is often called the “Land of Waterfalls,” and with good reason. Its
dramatic terrain, shaped by glaciers and volcanic activity over millennia, is
home to thousands of waterfalls scattered across the island. From the
thundering force of Gullfoss to the delicate veil of Seljalandsfoss and the
haunting beauty of Skógafoss, each waterfall has its own unique presence.
Fed by
glacial melt and snow-fed rivers, these waterfalls are not just scenic
attractions—they are living symbols of Iceland’s raw elemental energy and
timeless natural grandeur. In this land of fire and ice, waterfalls are not
rare; they are part of the daily scenery, yet never lose their power to awe and
inspire.
A glimpse of Ancient Ice: Solheimajokull Glacier
Our next destination filled us with anticipation—the Sólheimajökull glacier, dramatically nestled between two volcanoes: Katla and Eyjafjallajökull. There are few places on Earth where one can stand so close to a realm of ancient, frozen time. Unlike the typical blue or white ice seen in most glaciers, Sólheimajökull is strikingly streaked with black. These bold markings were formed when volcanic ash from past eruptions of Katla and Eyjafjallajökull settled on the glacier’s surface. Over time, the ash was compressed under layers of snow, creating dark stripes that give the glacier its unique, rugged appearance.
Stretching roughly eight kilometers in length and two kilometers in width, Sólheimajökull is an impressive presence—majestic, silent, and yet subtly in motion.
Eyjafjallajökull is more than just a name from the news for us—it has touched our lives directly. In 2010, when the volcano erupted, it caused widespread air traffic disruptions across Europe. We happened to be flying to Amsterdam at the time, where our daughter was to meet us with lunch before we caught a connecting flight to the UK to visit my brother. But due to the ash cloud, our flight was diverted to Frankfurt. With airport staff overwhelmed and prioritizing transatlantic passengers, we began to panic. Fortunately, a train was just about to depart for Amsterdam, and we managed to contact our daughter in time. What followed was a mad dash—dragging our luggage through the station, scrambling to board the train. By the grace of God, we reunited with our daughter and caught our UK flight as planned. It’s a memory forever etched in both gratitude and adrenaline.
Yet, amidst all this drama and grandeur, there is a sobering reality. Like many of Iceland’s glaciers, Sólheimajökull is shrinking at an alarming rate. At its base lies a growing lagoon—a visible sign of retreat. Each year, the glacier recedes by the length of an Olympic swimming pool. Scientists believe this loss is now irreversible, a stark consequence of climate change. If the current trend continues, Sólheimajökull may vanish within a few decades.
Standing before it, we couldn’t help but feel both awe and sorrow—grateful for the chance to witness this icy giant, yet aware of how quickly such wonders are slipping away.
Reynisfjara: Beauty and Power in Black
Reynisfjara Beach is one of the most famous black sand beaches in the world—a place of wild, elemental beauty where the roaring waves of the Atlantic crash ashore with thunderous force. Located on Iceland’s South Coast, Reynisfjara captivates with its striking black sand, the dramatic Reynisdrangar sea stacks rising offshore, and towering basalt columns lining the cliffs. Its otherworldly landscape has made it a popular filming location for shows and movies like Game of Thrones and Star Wars.
But this beauty is not without danger.
As we approached the beach, we noticed a large warning board that immediately caught our attention. It cautioned visitors about “sneaker waves”—sudden, powerful surges that can sweep people out to sea in seconds. The signs were clear: never turn your back to the ocean, and never stand too close to the water. We kept our distance, deeply aware of the risks.
Just ahead of us were three women exploring the beach. One of them knelt down near the shore to photograph a wave. In a heart-stopping moment, a massive wave surged forward, crashed over her, and knocked her down. Her friends screamed and ran toward the cliffs. As the wave receded, they rushed back to help her. Soaked and visibly shaken, she stood up, shivering from the cold and the shock. It was a sobering reminder that in Iceland, nature demands respect.
The beach's iconic black sand is a product of the island’s volcanic origins. Formed from heavily eroded volcanic rocks—particularly basalt—this sand is naturally dark. When lava from eruptions cools and hardens rapidly upon contact with water, it breaks into fine, glossy black fragments, giving Reynisfjara its unforgettable appearance. Iceland has at least 25 varieties of volcanic rock, but basalt is the most widely known and dramatically displayed here.
Reynisdrangar Sea Stacks- Myth and majesty
Reynisdrangar are the basalt sea stacks situated under the mountain Reynisfjall near the village of Vík í Mýrdal , and It is framed by a black sand beach. Legend says that the stacks originated when two trolls dragged a three-masted ship to land unsuccessfully and at the break of day turned into needles of rock.
Reynisdrangar are formed when part of a headland is eroded by hydraulic action, which is the force of the sea or water crashing against the rock. The force of the water weakens cracks in the headland, causing them to later collapse, forming free-standing stacks.
The Reynisdrangar sea stacks are home to thousands of nesting seabirds. The summer air is filled with wings flapping and birds flying out at sea to fish for their young ones. This is an interesting location for all birdwatchers as many species like Puffins, Arctic tern, Fulmars, Seagulls and Guillemots are found here.
Reynisdrangar pillars
The Reynisdrangar pillars are majestic basalt formations that rise defiantly from the sea, their jagged silhouettes etched against the horizon. While their geological origin lies in the relentless erosion of volcanic cliffs by the Atlantic Ocean, it is the Icelandic folklore surrounding them that lends a haunting depth to their presence.
One of the most well-known tales tells of two trolls who spotted a ship at sea under the cover of night. Determined to claim it, they waded into the water and began dragging it toward shore. But, as is often the fate of trolls in Icelandic legend, they misjudged the time. As dawn broke, the first light of day struck them—and both trolls, along with the ship, were instantly turned to stone. There they remain, frozen for eternity, a silent warning to others of their kind.
Another variation of the legend tells a darker story. In this version, two trolls murdered a woman. Her husband, seeking justice, lured the trolls out at night, tricked them, and ensured they too were caught by the rising sun—condemning them forever to stand as stone sentinels in the sea.
These eerie, weather-beaten pillars carry the weight of both myth and memory, standing not only as marvels of nature but also as timeless storytellers of Iceland’s wild imagination and enduring connection with the unseen.
The Lava show- Fire Reimagined
Our final stop for the day was the Icelandic Lava Show—a truly one-of-a-kind experience that brings Iceland’s fiery essence indoors. The idea for the show was born in 2010, when Júlíus and Ragnhildur, a husband-and-wife team, witnessed the breathtaking lavafall during the Fimmvörðuháls eruption, which preceded the larger Eyjafjallajökull eruption by just a few weeks. Moved by the raw beauty and power of the molten earth, they set out to recreate that awe-inspiring moment in a safe and immersive way.
Located at Víkurbraut in the charming coastal village of Vík—right in the heart of the Katla UNESCO Global Geopark—the Icelandic Lava Show is the first (and until recently, the only) live lava show in the world. Surrounded by volcanoes, glaciers, black sand beaches, and dramatic cliffs, the setting itself is a perfect introduction to what lies inside.
The show recreates a volcanic eruption by superheating real lava to a staggering 1,100°C (2,000°F) and pouring it into a specially designed showroom. As the glowing, molten rock flows and sizzles on contact with ice and stone, you feel the heat, hear it crackle, and witness the primal forces of creation—up close, but without danger.
It was an unforgettable finale to a day shaped by the fire and folklore of Iceland, and a reminder of the dynamic forces that continue to shape this remarkable land.
.....To be continued
References:
https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/solheimajokull
https://adventures.is/iceland/attractions/solheimajokull/
https://amazingiceland.is/destination/reynisdrangar/
