Read Part 1 here: https://happycore.blogspot.com/2025/06/ice-and-fire-experiencing-iceland.html
Day 3: Southeast Iceland
We began the day with excitement in our hearts, heading toward one of Iceland’s most iconic destinations—the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.
Eldhraun lava field
As we traveled along Iceland’s south coast, we caught glimpses from the road of the vast and hauntingly beautiful Eldhraun lava field—said to be the largest lava flow of its kind in the world. Stretching across an astonishing 565 square kilometers Eldhraun (“Fire Lava”) was formed during the catastrophic Lakagígar crater eruption of 1783–1784. This eruption is counted among the greatest in recorded history, and it left a profound mark not only on Iceland but on the entire Northern Hemisphere.
Scientists consider the Laki eruption one of the most poisonous in historical times. It unleashed toxic gases that caused crop failures, livestock deaths, and severe famine in Iceland—leading to the loss of 53% to 82% of domestic animals and about 20% of the human population. The eruption’s effects were felt worldwide, contributing to extreme weather and failed harvests across Europe.
The stark, black lava fields left behind were once an unwelcoming wasteland. Today, however, Eldhraun is draped in a thick, spongy blanket of vibrant green moss. This moss cover transforms the harsh, jagged lava into an otherworldly landscape of rolling, velvety forms. It’s Iceland’s largest moss-covered lava field, offering a striking contrast between the raw violence of volcanic creation and the slow, patient reclamation of life.
Remarkably, it can take more than a hundred years for this moss to fully establish on the barren lava, thanks to its need for precisely the right balance of moisture and cool temperatures. Its delicate, spongy structure retains water and supports a fragile but important ecosystem. So sensitive is this moss that visitors are urged not to walk on it, to help preserve its otherworldly beauty for generations to come.
Interestingly, this alien landscape was so reminiscent of another world that it served as a training ground for the Apollo 11 astronauts as they prepared for their historic moon landing.
Mount Lomagnupur
Mount Lomagnupur is 181 miles (292 kilometers) east of Iceland's capital, Reykjavik. With its position along Route 1, it is easy to get the attraction. One of the most striking is its flat peak, estimated to be over a million years old. This plateau is mostly of palagonite composition, a volcanic mineral that forms when water and volcanic glass mix.
Its origins are most likely from volcanic eruptions underneath the Ice Age glaciers. The forefront of the mountain, also locally known as the “nose of Lomagnupur mountain” (Lomagnupsnef), was formerly a sea cliff from when the sea was farther inland thousands of years ago.
Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon
There are some spectacular canyons in Iceland, and Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon in South Iceland is one of them. It has a unique winding shape. Ropes had been put up in several places to prevent people from going out to all areas and to protect nature.
A forceful glacial river ran from the glacier edge through Fjaðrárgljúfur about 9-10,000 years ago, to create this majestic canyon through the progressive erosion of the palagonite, leaving only the harder rock behind.
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon was a true highlight of our trip. Jökulsárlón is a stunning glacial lagoon in southeastern Iceland, located at the head of the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier, which is part of the larger Vatnajökull ice cap. It's famous for its crystal-clear blue waters dotted with icebergs of various shapes and sizes that have calved from the glacier. The icebergs in the lagoon are made of compressed ice, which gives them their brilliant blue colour.
The lagoon is connected to the Atlantic Ocean by a short river, and icebergs often wash ashore on the nearby black sand beach, known as Diamond Beach. We had a glimpse of the Diamond Beach, just across the road from Jökulsárlón. Here, icebergs that had calved off the glacier floated out to sea and washed ashore, glittering like diamonds on the black volcanic sand. The contrast of sparkling ice against the jet-black beach was mesmerizing.
By evening, we continued our journey east along the winding coastal road to reach Guesthouse Hafnarnes, our stop for the night.
Tired but deeply content, we fell asleep with memories of icebergs and lava fields fresh in our minds.
Day 4: The Eastfjords
We set out early for one of our longer drives—nearly five hours through the remote and rugged Eastfjords. a region in eastern Iceland, characterized by a rugged, mountainous coastline deeply indented by numerous fjords(a long narrow piece of sea between cliffs).Fjords are characterized by their unique and picturesque geological formations, including deep, narrow inlets, steep cliffs, and U-shaped valleys, creating a visually striking landscape.
Blábjörg (Blue Cliffs)
Blábjörg cliffs, national monument, were and formed in a pyroclastic flow in a huge phreatic eruption that took place here some 9-10 million years ago. The locals believe that it has got supernatural powers.
Though called 'blue cliffs', actually they lookmore green than blue.
The "Eggs at Merry Bay" (Eggin í Gleðivík)
The "Eggs at Merry Bay" (Eggin í Gleðivík) is a unique outdoor art installation in Djúpivogur, Iceland, featuring 34 large granite eggs, each representing a different bird species native to the area. Artist Sigurður Guðmundsson created these sculptures, which are arranged along the coastline of Gleðivík bay. The biggest egg symbolizes the red-throated diver, the official bird of Djúpivogur.
By late afternoon, we reached Egilsstaðir, our base for the night at Lyngás Guesthouse. We settled in and planned the next day’s adventure into North Iceland.
Day 5: North Iceland
From there, we set off on a long but rewarding drive to Dettifoss, Iceland’s most powerful waterfall. Even from afar, its thunderous roar was unmistakable. A short 20-minute hike from the parking area brought us to the canyon’s edge, where the mighty falls plunged 45 meters into the Jökulsárgljúfur canyon below. The sheer force of the water was breathtaking, and the mist drenched us even at a distance—a raw, unforgettable encounter with nature’s power.
Námafjall Hverir Geothermal Area
Our journey continued west to the Námafjall Geothermal Area, also known as Hverir or Hverarönd. This surreal landscape of fumaroles, bubbling mud pools, and hissing steam vents felt almost unearthly. The vivid mineral colors and strange rock formations were mesmerizing, though the strong sulfur smell—like rotten eggs—was impossible to ignore. Some zones were carefully roped off for safety due to dangerously high ground temperatures.
Grjótagjá Cave
Next, we visited Grjótagjá Cave, a small lava cave near Lake Mývatn famed for its beautiful geothermal hot spring. Once a popular bathing spot for locals, the water’s temperature became dangerously hot following volcanic activity in the 1970s. Authorities later fenced off the cave to prevent accidents. Fans of Game of Thrones may recognize this evocative location from its appearance in the series.
Creek above Grjotagja Lava Cave
Krafla Víti Crater
We also stopped at the dramatic Krafla Víti Crater, part of a volcanic system with a 10 km diameter and a 90 km-long fissure zone. One of Iceland’s most striking and active volcanoes, Krafla is notorious for its violent history, having erupted 29 times over the past 1,200 years. Its geothermal energy today powers Iceland’s largest geothermal plant—a testament to the island’s ability to harness its raw natural forces.
Incredibly beautiful Lake Mývatn
Mývatn is a shallow lake situated in an area of active volcanism in the north of Iceland, near Krafla volcano. The volcanic Lake Myvatn area covers an area of 37 square km, making it Iceland's 4th largest lake.
Goðafoss – The Waterfall of the Gods
We ended our day at Goðafoss, the “Waterfall of the Gods,” a short yet spectacular horseshoe-shaped cascade considered one of Iceland’s most beautiful sights. According to legend, pagan idols were thrown into its waters when Iceland converted to Christianity—a moment of symbolic transformation immortalized in the landscape itself.
By nightfall, we reached Húsavík and checked into the Green Hostel, ready for a well-earned rest. Though our room was quite small with bunk beds, the kitchen and reception areas were inviting and comfortable.
GeoSea Geothermal Sea Baths
My daughter was eager to visit the GeoSea Geothermal Sea Baths, and she found the experience deeply satisfying. This world-class spa in North Iceland features naturally heated seawater with stunning views over the North Atlantic.
Rich in natural minerals and famous for their rejuvenating properties, the pools are prized by locals for their ability to relax muscles, soothe skin, and improve circulation—a perfect way to end a day of adventure in the wild north.
...To be continued
References:
https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/solheimajokull
https://adventures.is/iceland/attractions/solheimajokull/
https://amazingiceland.is/destination/reynisdrangar/
https://www.icelandtravel.is/attractions/eldhraun-lava-field/
https://www.motorhomeiceland.com/blog/grjotagja